Mango Picking & Tasting in Ratnagiri

How Mango-Mad Are You? 

by Shruti Karkhedkar

Ratnagiri - A land of virgin beaches, cozy and welcoming home-stays, delicious sea food and yes a land of well known Ratnagiri Alphonso (Hapus) Mangoes. Having said that, it is a given that one would click on the ‘Going’ button immediately when a ‘Mango Tasting Tour to Ratnagiri’ is announced. The three day trip from the 16 to 18 May 2014 was organized by The Western Routes, a Pune-based travel company to Ganeshgule, a small village in the Ratnagiri district.

Freshly cut Hapus Mangoes | Photo: Medha Sahasrabudhe

Day 1

We started at 6 am from Pune all packed for a long weekend by the beach. The journey was rather enjoyable and very scenic, particularly after Karad city from where we left the NH-4 and took the smaller village roads. The recent sporadic drizzle had started painting the forests of the Western Ghats with different hues of green which contrasted with the bright blue summer skies and called for a snapshot by every twist and turn round the Ghats. The six hour drive had increased our craving for the much awaited mango meal by a zillion times. 

When we reached the home-stay, were welcomed by Mithil Pitre our host at Ganeshgule. Mithil welcomed us with glasses of cold Panha; a sweet and refreshing drink made with raw mangoes. Mithil runs a home-stay by the beach at Ganeshgule called 'Oceano Pearl’. Our welcome was followed by a wholesome mango meal with unlimited Aamras (fresh mango pulp), plates full of freshly cut mangoes and the regular Maharashtrian thali delicacies – sol kadhi, bhakri, amti and koshimbir.

After lunch and some rest, we visited the Ganeshgule Ganpati temple. The Ganeshgule temple is about 400 years old and is one of the few south-facing temples in India. One of the villagers at the temple narrated a folklore of Lord Ganesha shifting to Ganpatipule from Ganeshgule after the water stopped surging from his navel! 

Once back at the home-stay the next inevitable thing to do was to head to the beach which is literally a hop, skip and a jump away from the home-stay. The Ganeshgule beach is not known to many and hence the feeling of solace adds to the beauty of this white sand beach. We spent rest of the evening taking photographs of the sunset, swimming in the sea and walking by the sea shore. The thoughts of more mangoes awaiting us at the dinner table lured us back to the home-stay.

Ganeshgule Beach | Photo: Raphael Baumann

Ganeshgule Beach | Photo: Jayesh Paranjape

Ganeshgule Beach | Photo: Shruti Karkhedkar

Time-lapse video of the sunset at Ganeshgule beach by Raphael Baumann

Day 2

We started the day with a sabudana khichadi breakfast. Sightseeing was the agenda for the day and Aare-Ware beach our first pit-stop. The Aare and Ware beaches lie next to one another and are separated by a hill. We stopped at a turning on this hill to admire the scenic horizon over the two beaches. Some strategically located shacks served us kokum sarbat, tender coconut water and bhel with loads of kairee (raw mango) pieces.

We then headed to the Ganpatipule temple which is one the most visited and most revered temples in Maharashtra. Needless to say hoards of worshippers awaited their turn to be blessed by the deity. We decided to skip this and take a few clicks of the temple instead. Although constructed recently this red and white structure is aesthetically very appealing unlike many of the modern temple structures.

Ganpatipule Temple | Photo: Raphael Baumann

Ganpatipule Temple | Photo: Raphael Baumann

A trip to Konkan is incomplete without sea-food. On recommendation by a lot of people we had our lunch at Hotel Amantran in Ratnagiri. The lunch was perfect with its crunchy prawn tawa fry, perfectly cooked pomfret fry and a mouth watering surmai. We ended the meal with a rather generous helping of amrakhand (Srikhand with mango pulp). Visit to the Thibaw Palace came next. The palace was used for keeping Thibaw Min, the last king of Burma (now Myanmar) under house arrest.  The palace is now used as museum and a number of artifacts excavated from the Konkan region are on display here.

Surmai Fry Thali

Thibaw Palace | Photo: Raphael Baumann

Our next destination was Purnagad Fort which is said to be the last fort constructed by Shivaji Maharaj, hence the name Purna (Stop) Gad (Fort). At the foot of the Purnagad fort is a rocky sea side and there wasn’t a better way of calling it a day than by sitting on the rocks and getting wet by the splashing sea waves.

Purnagad Fort | Photo: Vidyuth Singh

Purnagad Beach | Photo: Raphael Baumann

Purnagad Beach | Photo: Raphael Baumann

Day 3

The day started with a session of making sand castles by the beach followed by a breakfast of ambolis (pancakes made from rice flour) with coconut chutney. We followed this with a fun session of mango picking at a nearby orchard in Ganeshgule. We got to select ready-to-pick mangoes and then use an ingenious and traditional technique to pick the mangoes.

Mango Picking at Ganeshgule | Photo: Raphael Baumann

Finally with a heavy heart we said bye to our hosts. But we made sure that we bought loads of ‘food’ souvenirs. The perfect spot to do this was at the Deshmukh household in Pawas village who have a small unit where mango and jackfruit pulp is canned. They also sell high quality Alphonso mangoes which are exported across the globe. The advantage of buying Alphonso mangoes directly at the source is that they are almost three times cheaper than in Pune or Mumbai.

We bought mangoes enough to last us this season and with alphonso sweet memories headed back home! 

More details about the Mango Picking & Tasting Tour for 2015 is on their Facebook page  or on the event page here

This travel story first appeared in the Mumbai edition of Mid-Day in May 2014. Read the full story here

Eight Wonders of Coastal Ratnagiri!

8 WONDERS OF COASTAL RATNAGIRI

You drive up mountains and glide down green valleys and all along yearn to finally reach the ocean front. Just as you wonder if the journey is on forever, suddenly the ocean meets your eyes. You remain transfixed! Situated on the gorgeous western coast of India, the Ratnagiri district is home to some of the most stunning landscapes. Thanks to the presence of the majestic Sahyadris range on one side and and the beautiful Arabian Sea on the other. The sandy beaches, rocky outcrops and small but vital estuaries along the Ratnagiri coast are ideal spots to reconnect with nature. Add to this the friendly and ever helpful people and the yummy Konkani cuisine. A combination that you don't want to miss! Here are The Western Routes' EIGHT most favorite destinations around coastal Ratnagiri!

Velas

A newly hatched Olive Ridley Turtle making its way to the sea. Photo: Anshul Khandelwal

Ever wondered how it would be to witness an Animal Planet like moment when tiny turtle hatchlings, make that journey from the hatched egg to the sea? Between February to April, nature enthusiasts can actually experience this rare event on the Velas beach in Ratnagiri district. A local NGO from Chiplun, Sahyadri Nisarga Mitra, started this project in 2002 and in the first year they protected 50 nests of Olive Ridley (Lepidochelys olivacea) and released more than 2700 hatchlings in the sea. Now, Sahyadri Nisarga Mitra, has joined hands with the Gram Panchayat at Velas and the local Forest department office to organise a unique Turtle Festival each year. The villagers are actively involved in the conservation of these turtles. They offer their homes as home-stays to the tourists who come to Velas during the festival. Once in Velas, you can also visit the Himmatgad fort or take a ferry boat from Bankot to the beautiful Harihareshwar Beach.

Check out the Olive Ridley hatchlings making their way to the sea!

Anjarle

The Kadyawarcha Ganpati Temple in Anjarle. Photo: Kedar Champhekar

Anjarle is one of the most secluded beaches in the Konkan belt. The 2 km stretch is full of crystal like scintillating white sand and sparking clean water, surrounded by an array of palm trees. Adjoining the beach is the traditional pastoral Anjarle village. Anjarle is also known for the legendary Ganpati Temple. The Kadyavarcha Ganpati (temple on a cliff) is one of the well-known prehistoric temples of India and dates back to 1500 A.D. It is known for its architecture. The temple has a very beautiful primordial décor with stone staircases leading to the temple’s Kalas (mast) on the top. There is also a fishpond in front of the temple alongside a shrine of Lord Shiva. The Ganesh Idol here is rare and locally called as “Ujwya Sondecha Ganpati” (trunk turned to the right side), a very rare sight for the devotees. This Ganpati is also known for wish fulfilling powers, traditionally called as “navsala pavnara Ganpati”. Hence in the customary dialect, it is referred as ‘Jagrut Daiwat’ or a very lively God.

Murud, Karde & Harnai

One of the beaches between Murud and Harnai. Photo: Vinit Godbole

Have you ever been to a fish fight (fish, fishing and trading)? You can experience one at Harnai village, around 12 km from Dapoli. Being one of the natural harbors, it is an ideal wharf for fish trading. The fish auction at Harnai village is one of the most sought after events in the area and is a daily custom held between 8 am to 10 am in the morning and 4 pm and 7 pm in the evening. The market is known to sell different varieties of fish like Pomfret, Surmai, Tiger Prawns, Squids, Lobsters, Mackerel, and many more. The fish quality is high and has lured many travelers and photographers. Tourist can also indulge in the fish fest of betting and auctioning. Apart from the auction, Harnai is also known for the magnificent Harnai Fort located on the northern front of the village.

Some glimpses from the Fish Auction at Harnai Beach. Photos: Vinit Godbole

The Murud & Karde beaches are known for its marvelous, mesmerizing, and friendly  Dolphins. The Murud-Karde beach stretch is situated around 12 km from Dapoli. The coastal hamlet of Murud serves a variety of yummy fishes cooked in local masalas (seasoning) that are known world-wide. The area is also a culturally rich coastal community acknowledged for its Diwali and Holi celebrations. Head to these twin beaches to indulge into some touristy things like water sports and boat rides or simply for the breath-taking sunset or being in the company of the affable Dolphins.

Velneshwar & Hedvi

Photo: Raphael Baumann

Around 20 km south of the famous Guhagar Beach and to the north of the Shastri River lies the idyllic village of Velneshwar. The quiet, coconut-fringed beach offers tourists the ideal opportunity for swimming or just relaxing without any tourist disturbance. There is an old Shiva temple in the environs which is often frequented by pilgrims particularly during the Maha Shivratri festival. A few kilometers away from Velneshwar is Hedvi, which is known for its unique Dashabhuja Ganapati. Standing 3 feet tall and carved in white stone, the ideol, is beleived to be from the Kashmir region and has ten hands, hence the name ‘Dashabhuja’. While in Hedvi, do not miss experiencing the water rising to almost 30-40 feet at one point along the beach. This is called as Brahman Ghal. It is a rare natural phenomenon where the sea water has created a gorge in the black rock patch, which is around 20 feet deep and 2 feet wide. When the sea water gushes in the vertical column, it rises through the gorgre for almost 30-40 feet!

Ganpatipule

Ganpatipule Temple. Photo: Raphael Baumann

‘Ganpatipule’ – the name itself suggest the place of Lord Ganesha. Ganpatipule is one of the ‘Astha Ganpatis’ (Eight Ganesha pilgrim centers) of India. The idol is believed to be nearly 400 years old is ‘swayambhu’ or self-created. The divine abode is blessed with sparkling beaches, and jagged coconut palm and mangroves along the coastline. The picturesque 12 km stretch is an ideal place to rejuvenate and immerse within the self and nature. The silver sand, swaying palms, glittering beach, and the beaming moon is meditative in itself and ought to leave you spell bound. The narrow red mud roads and vegetation of mangoes, jackfruit, betel nut, and bananas along with thatch-roofed dwellings bring travelers closer to their true home.  For adventure lovers, this place offers paragliding and other water sports. Over the years Ganpatipule has emerged to be one of the most visited beaches along the Konkan coast. During tourist seasons, the beach gets crowded around the temple. A simple solution is to walk a bit south away from the crowd and find a patch which is devoid of any tourists!

Aare-Ware

The Aare Beach from the road which goes on to Waare Beach. Photo: Bhavpreet Ghai

Aare and Ware are little twin beach brothers, naked and virgin. The beaches are safely tucked away from the crowds which throng the Ganpatipule beach. Aare Ware beach is situated en-route from Ratnagiri to Ganpatipule. If you are travelling from Ganpatipule, you will first witness the beautiful Ware beach that is about a kilometer from the Aare beach. You have to take a meandering path through the village to get to the Ware Beach. At a certain stretch of the beach, there is a belt of dense Suru trees, which looks like a stunning emerald on the white sand alluring the travelers. The sunset point from the hilltop near Aare beach is a breathtaking view covered by the blue sea from all three sides.

Ganeshgule

A panoramic view of the stunning Ganeshgule Beach. Photo: Raphael Baumann

Gulyaacha Ganpati Pulyaalaa Gela is a famous proverb that goes with the primordial temple of Ganeshgule, which is anticipated to be about 400 years old. The shrine is unique in itself, as, it is a South-facing temple, which is very rare in India. The temple premise has a 70 feet deep well with steps to go till its bottom. A myth states that water use to surge from the navel of Lord Ganesh and one fine day it just stopped flowing. Hence Ganesha shifted from Gule to Pule. The temple is situated on a hillock that is about 40 feet from the seashore. Ganeshgule beach has a 2 km shoreline with crystal white sand. This lazy beach is scarcely developed and is a nice respite after a strenuous day. 

Check the sun setting at the Ganeshgule Beach!

Purnagad

The entrance to the Purnagad Fort. Photo: Vidyuth Singh

Maharashtra, a land whose sheer size and diversity fascinates people, is also known for its warrior history and forts. Purnagad is one such fort. The majestic structure with its grand entrance, huge walls guarding the bastion, beautiful ancient carvings are sure to leave you awe-struck. The fort has a sphere of four entrances. Its main entrance door is engraved with pictures of the Sun, Moon and Lord Ganesha alongside which there is a giant statue of Lord Hanuman covered with shendur, an orange colored paste. A nice walk on the walls of the fort will give you a bird’s eye view of the surrounding area with its scintillating azure sea, Suru Ban trees, and the Muchkundi river creek at its base.

The legend goes that the fort was named Purnagad because it resembles the size of a full stop or when the construction of the fort was complete Shivaji Maharaj decided not to reform its further extension and called 'purnaviram' hence the name Purnagad. Similarly, there is some evidence which also suggests that the fort was constructed by Sakhoji Angre, son of Kanoji Angre. But historical debates notwithstanding, the fort is stunning and the ruined state adds to the charm!

A lone fisherman at the Purnagad beach. Photo: Raphael Baumann

This article was taken from Routes & Trails January 2013 issue which is an online magazine by The Western Routes. Read it here

To know more about these destinations and if you want to include these in your trip, click here www.thewesternroutes.com/tours